Monday, February 2, 2009

Lisboa, Portugal





























I spent the extended weekend in Lisboa, Portugal, due to a holiday at the University on Friday (1/30). We took a bus from Madrid to Lisboa late Thursday night, arriving there around 6am. Despite the close proximity of the two countries, Portugal is one hour behind Spain. Additionally, traveling about Lisboa is not for the faint of heart, as the city is built around 7 hills. With narrow cobblestone sidewalks and often very steep streets, heels are next to impossible to wear and just keeping your balance is challenging enough.

After arriving in Lisboa, Katherine (a girl from the University) and I made our way to our hostel - called Bairro Alto Travellers - in the Bairro Alto district of the city. As the name suggests, it is built on one of the city's 7 hills, making climbs to our hostel quite a workout. Though I had doubts about staying in a hostel, I was pleasantly surprised to find it both cutely decorated and very clean. Free breakfasts were provided, along with coffee, internet, etc.

Though it rained all day Friday, we made our way to the Bélem district of the city, where you can find the Jerónimo Monastery and the Bélem Tower - both designated UNESCO World Heritage sites. Bélem Tower was built in the 16th century to commemorate Vasco da Gama's expedition. It also served as part of a defense system for the mouth of the Tagus River.

The Jerónimo Monastery also was built in the 16th century on the site of a hermitage built in 1450. Vasco da Gama spent the night at this old hermitage prior to setting sail for India in 1497. His importance and significance to Portugal's history is highlighted by the fact that his tomb is just inside the entrance to the monastery. The monastery is built in the Manueline style and despite the rain on the day of my visit, was truly a beautiful site to see.

Bélem is also home to the Bélem pastries, famous the world over. Actually, all of Lisboa had delicious pastries, and was the staple of my diet during my time there.

Friday night we experienced a bit of the nightlife in our neighborhood, since the area of Bairro Alto is known for its many bars, clubs, and Fado (Portugal's famous music) houses.

Saturday I visited the Castle of São Jorge, located at the very top of Lisboa's tallest hill. The origins of the castle are a bit hazy. The top of that hill has been occupied since at least the 2nd century BC, and perhaps as early as the 6th century BC. It was taken for Portugal from the Moors in 1147, but was nearly destroyed in the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Parts of it have been rebuilt in modern times.

I also visited in Sé, or Lisbon Cathedral, built in 1147, making it the oldest church in the entire city. On Sunday (2/1), we revisited the cathedral and were surprised to find that it was the 101st anniversary of the assassination of King Carlos I. On February 1, 1908, the king was assassinated while riding in an open carriage through Lisboa. To commemorate his death, a special church service is held on that day every year in the Sé Cathedral. All of the important families and political figures in Portugal - including the Royal Family - were in attendance. Since we were sitting in the very last row, we were the first to see them enter. They were dressed entirely in mourning, with the women wearing black shawls on their heads. They stood at the back of the church RIGHT NEXT TO US before proceeding down the aisle to their royal seats.

Just prior to leaving Portugal, we had dinner at a restaurant recommended to us by the owner of our hostel. It was called Chapito and was located near the Castle of São Jorge, overlooking the city and the river. Needless to say, it was the most beautiful dinner I've ever had in my life. The food was absolutely AMAZING (I am considering going back to Portugal for this restaurant and the pastries) and the view just added to the experience.

All in all, I had an incredible time in Portugal. The city was beautiful (perhaps more so than Madrid), and I would return in a heartbeat.

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